144Bay of Islands, two ways to see it

The land track

Russell & Kororāreka

Before it was the quiet waterfront village it is today, Russell was Kororāreka — a 19th-century whaling port so lawless it was nicknamed "the hellhole of the Pacific." The town still carries physical scars from that era.

Ferry from Paihia
~15 min
Christ Church built
1835
Status
NZ's oldest surviving church

Christ Church: bullet holes included

Built in 1835, Christ Church is New Zealand's oldest surviving church, originally holding services in both English and Māori. On 30 January 1840, Captain William Hobson stood here to proclaim British administration over New Zealand — a week before the Treaty itself was signed at Waitangi across the bay.

During the 1845 Battle of Kororāreka, the church took stray musket and cannon fire — the pockmarks are still visible in its outer walls today, not restored over.

Pompallier House

A short walk from the church, Pompallier House is New Zealand's oldest Catholic mission building and one of the country's oldest industrial sites, originally built to print, bind and tan for the Catholic mission press.

Weathered exterior wall of Christ Church in Russell showing historic musket-ball damage from 1845
Christ Church's outer wall still carries damage from the 1845 Battle of Kororāreka.

Getting across from Paihia

A passenger ferry crosses from Paihia's wharf in around fifteen minutes — no car needed for a day visit, and it's the more direct route than driving the long way around via the Opua vehicle ferry. Russell itself is small and entirely walkable; most of what matters sits within a few streets of the waterfront.

Where this fits

Russell pairs naturally with Waitangi as a land-track day, or stands alone as a half-day trip. See Paihia for the departure-point details, or jump to the day planner.